El Retiro is one of those places everyone in Madrid thinks they know… until you go with someone who lives nearby and realize you never truly knew it. It’s not just about walking around the pond or taking a few photos in front of the Crystal Palace. For a madrileño, El Retiro is a space to enjoy free time, improvise plans, and eat well. In this guide, we give you a few tips to set aside the tourist map, without rushing, with curiosity, and with the certainty that there are always new things to discover.

‍

When to go to make the most of it

‍

The hours are simple but important: in spring and summer (from April to September) it’s open from 6:00 a.m. to midnight, and in autumn and winter (from October to March), from 6:00 a.m. to 10:00 p.m. Your visit can change a lot depending on the time of day. Early in the morning, the park is quiet, with people running and exercising, neighbors walking their dogs, and perfect light to enjoy the Rose Garden or the Botanical Trail without too many people. In the late afternoon, especially in summer, El Retiro fills with people, families, groups of friends, musicians, or skaters, making the atmosphere much livelier. If you want to experience both sides of the park, you can go in early, leave for lunch, and come back just before sunset to watch it from the steps by the pond, which is the best spot.

‍

The most special spots

‍

The Crystal Palace is a landmark of the park, but don’t just see it from the outside. Go in and check out the temporary exhibition on display, which is often free. The Rose Garden, designed in 1915, is a must-visit between May and June, when its more than 5,000 rose bushes are in bloom and the scent of roses can be smelled even before you enter. Another interesting spot is the Fallen Angel statue, an icon of the park that breaks with the usual aesthetics. And if you are looking for something more peaceful, walk along the Botanical Trail, a route designed to showcase different tree species, some of them centuries old.

‍

Different plans

‍

You don’t have to make things complicated to fully enjoy El Retiro. A boat ride on the Large Pond is a classic plan that always works, costing 6 € on weekdays and 8 € on weekends, perfect for a fun and different time. If you’re going with children, the Puppet Theater offers free performances almost every weekend, a plan few international guides mention. You’ll also find talented street musicians, especially near the Crystal Palace or the pond, as well as artists painting live or doing caricatures. And if you’re more active, El Retiro is also a sports space, with running areas, groups practicing yoga or tai chi, and even impromptu skating lessons.

‍

Where to eat in the park

‍

Inside El Retiro, El Pabellón de Florida Park offers quality traditional cuisine, creamy croquettes, hearty stews, and classic desserts. Outside the park, Arzábal Retiro is a modern tavern ideal for sharing tapas such as Russian salad, cured meats, or torrijas. If you want a good meal without spending too much, Casa Hernández offers a set menu for about 13 €, and for something quick, around El Retiro you’ll find options like Panem with sandwiches and artisan breads, Il Tavolo Verde for a healthier choice, La Castela for a traditional bar, or the Florida Park kiosks, ideal for a quick outdoor snack.

‍

Tips to feel like a local

‍

El Retiro is not to be enjoyed in a hurry, so the best way to experience it is without a fixed plan. Bring something to sit on the grass for a while, grab a coffee to go, and sit in one of the areas designated for it. If you want to avoid crowds at the entrances, skip the most popular ones like Puerta de Alcalá. Try entering through less-known access points like Puerta de Mariano de Cavia or the one on Calle de Ibiza, which are usually quieter and let you start your visit in peace.

‍

El Retiro is much more than just a park in the capital, it is a space everyone enjoys differently and that adapts to each moment of the day. The difference between seeing it as a tourist and experiencing it like a local lies in the small details, knowing when to go, discovering less obvious spots, pairing a walk with a good meal, and above all, not rushing. Next time you go, forget the standard route and explore it as if it were your first day… or as if you had known it forever.